Author Topic: words and pics from Tony B  (Read 472 times)


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words and pics from Tony B
« on: August 14, 2020, 12:47:22 AM »
Hi John,
Just a little update now I’m back from Norway.
Unfortunately, most of my aid gear didn’t actually make it to Norway in the end… so we had to revise goals somewhat.
The ledge did make it, but due to gear available/viable objectives, we only slept on it for 2 nights in the end, and mainly to get familiar with it.
Below is some preliminary feedback, I hope to do a more thorough assessment next chance I get:
Pitching “for real” was very easy, the self assembling bullet joiner system worked really nicely.
The A5 style fly bag made pitching with the fly attached super easy. In fact, with the fly bag it was easier to do for real on a cliff with wind than it had been at home on my indoor wall without it! At just 175g/6oz +1 extra maillon rapide/biner (and it could be lighter with a less beefy anchor plate) I think is well worth the weight.  I’m not sure how that additional weight compares to the weight difference of using a more featured haul bag like those found on the full size D4 ledges though. The only real downside I found was that because it makes the fly into a “ball” it then became a little hard to stuff it into the relatively slim Trapezium haul bag (it did fit but sometimes took some ramming).
Both nights were with 2 people, and apx. 150kg/330lbs load. We didn’t have any issues with strap slippage when using the g-hooks I put on the bed tensioning straps that we discussed in a previous email. We didn’t actually feel the need to use the normal webbing slide locks at all in the end. I used the hook you had used on the haul bag closure for the middle strap that takes the most load, and that was fine too. It would seem using those on future trap/delta designs would probably work out fine, at least for climbers/loads in the range we tested.
Curiously, with 2 people, we actually found the most comfy way to lie was with both heads (or at least one) airside, rather than wall side as we had initially envisaged. Due to being forced into a curled up position because of the length, it gives more space for the legs which become the widest part, and it also puts your head near the corner “holes” in the bed which gives you some airflow if you have the fly closed making it feel generally more comfortable.
My main design feedback would be regarding the fly, there is a strip of heavy black reinforcement at the wall side corners that is great to see. However, it turns out that the reinforcement actually predominantly covers the side facing aspects of the fly. This may be critical to other aspects of the fly design that I’m not aware of, but the points of maximum contact with the wall (on the walls we pitched on at least) aren’t actually covered by these strips and took quite a battering in just the 2 nights I was on the ledge. I may have to patch/reinforce that area before next trip because in one part it’s close to wearing through already. This may in part be due to the fact both walls we pitched on where overhanging slightly, so the ledge was able to move side to side more than if it was more heavily loaded into the wall. I’ve attached two pictures which hopefully explain what I’m trying to say better than I can in words.
Also attached a picture of the ledge pitched on the West face of Segla in Senja ~660m above the sea. We rapped down onto it rather than climbed up it sadly, but it made for a pretty epic night with the midnight sun none the less.
Will try to do more testing as soon as I can and get some better pics/experience from a climbing perspective.