Author Topic: pioneering North Face Big Wall  (Read 333 times)


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pioneering North Face Big Wall
« on: December 01, 2019, 06:45:58 PM »
This was by far the most extreme big wall done on a north face in the greater ranges at the time. Probably still is.

"The players for the first route on the north face, in 1995, were Argentine-born Willy Benegas and Americans Eric Brand, Jared Ogden and Kevin Starr. They took the great corner, which they named the Book of Shadows. With an approach gully raked by slush avalanches and aerial bombardment, and pitches characterized by A4 aid and often loose and verglassed rock, it ranks as one of the more objectively hazardous and technically difficult routes on Trango. Given the perpetual cold of the north face, it's also as masochistic an undertaking as anything done on the Tower. The team used six ropes on their capsule-style climb, camped in portaledges, and made the summit on August 4 after a final eighteen-day push."

Full article:


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Re: pioneering North Face Big Wall
« Reply #1 on: December 03, 2019, 10:16:27 PM »
Fantastic forward thinking epic  by some great climbers, Brand was like no other !
BITD Big Wall Ascencionist making yet another comeback.....again  !