Author Topic: portaledge tie in system video  (Read 1388 times)

Deuce

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portaledge tie in system video
« on: November 11, 2019, 02:57:35 PM »
Just the way I do it:

https://youtu.be/iuzBmPJdN3s

blkbart00

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Re: portaledge tie in system video
« Reply #1 on: August 04, 2020, 01:50:52 PM »
What about sleeping?  I'm reading "Hooking Up" and PtPP says to just girth hitch a sling around your waist and remove your harness.   Why this doesn't scare me I do like the idea of being tied in twice, one being the dynamic rope. This will make my wife and mum happy.   

My thought to sleep without a harness:
 Start by sitting on the ledge, tied it to ledge itself with sling/PAS and tied into lead rope which is hanging under the ledge and attached to the anchor. As your video describes.
 Next tie a sling around my waist as described by Pete with just a girth hitch and overhand knot. Connect the sling to the tether going to the ledge. 
  Then Pull up slack from the rope and tie in short with a figure 8 on a bight and attach this to the sling leaving plenty of tail for the next step.
  Then untie the rope from my harness and attach it directly around my waist using the appropriate tie in, limiting knot with a slip knot. 
  Now remove the harness and get comfortable in my bag. 

This way I'd just have a sling and a rope around my waist.  I'm tied it pretty tight with the sling so if I do flip the ledge or fall off I wont go far and the rope is the ultimate backup encase the ledge anchor or something catastrophic happens, I'm still attached to the wall. 

Am I overthinking this too much?  I know I need to get out and just do it.  I'm just trying to be as prepared as possible.  The one night I spent sleeping on the ledge I stayed in my harness.  This was fine for one night but for multiple nights it'd be nice to remove harness, put on long johns, etc.   

Deuce

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Re: portaledge tie in system video
« Reply #2 on: August 07, 2020, 03:29:15 PM »
I don’t recommend ever taking off your harness on a big wall. 

My best big wall harness designs had leg loops that were easily detachable in the back.  Then you *could* remove the  leg loops but still have the full strength waist part of the harness, assuming your harness is designed that way.

Removing a harness on a big wall is not a standard practice.  Ok, sometimes i did it when on a massive ledge, for a short time. But even then, with extreme caution. You never know what will happen.

Of important note, all portaledges are designed for comfort and convenience, none have ever been load rated and are NOT safety systems, like a harness.  So replacing your harness With a sling is the same as climbing with just a sling.  You never know what could happen on a wall, when you read accident reports in the AAJ journals, you will note that most accidents are the result of a sequence of assumptions, not just one thing.  Take care.

blkbart00

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Re: portaledge tie in system video
« Reply #3 on: August 11, 2020, 01:34:45 PM »
That's great info.  Thanks for clearing that up for me. 

MacksWhineturd

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Re: portaledge tie in system video
« Reply #4 on: August 21, 2020, 08:39:38 PM »
I also feel more comfortable with the harness on.  Remove the leg loops if you want want more comfort.  I feel like if for whatever reason the ledge failed and you're rudely awakened you'd rather be dangling in your harness than a girth hitched sling.