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BigWalls Forum / Re: Tom Frost
« Last post by MtnTradman on Today at 11:42:02 AM »
Its been a little over a year since Tom left this world for another. The last time I saw Tom was in the early 90s, in Boulder at his home. We had chatted at Neptunes for a bit after one of their Thurs nite slide shows. Talking about photogrpahy and film lighting and a small project ( not climbing related) I was planning to do with a friend. It was getting late for him since Doreen was waiting at home so he said 'Why dont ya come on up to the house next week and  we can talk some more, I can show you a couple lights"
So a few weeks later I called and went on up. Greeted with that well known smile, we sat for a few hours in the backyard not soo much talking about climbing or lighting but about the world, people, the future of the Earth. As the sun set Tom said "I gotta a couple small lights in the garage  I want to show you". We went into the garage where he started opening cabinets that had boxes stowed away. As he pulled one after the other he briefly looked in each. 

At one box he stopped and smiled as he opened it. I bent over to look in as he said ' Ohh forgot these were here" It was filled with some old climbing gear I was dropped jawed . He pulled out an old Chouinard Hammer some tube chocks a few choice proto type nuts and RURPS,  slings, old bandana and a 70s style harness. I said "Wow thats some history there huh ?"  He laughed " Sure is !"  He got quiet for a minute  and I could tell he was thinking about those old days  "good memories are hard to forget" I nodded and he said "hold this how does it feel ?" as he handed me the Chouinard hammer. I swung it mimicing driving a pin, ' "Feels broken in, ready to go again" He chuckled  'Yup well used !" After that short detour down memory lane he found the lights and we set them up for a quik demo as the rest of the evening flew by. There are few people who's spirit sets you at ease instantly and rides high over all the crap one encounters in the world. Tom was one of them.

http://www.yosemiteclimbing.org/tom-frost
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Bit of thread drift.

I've offered to support a friend's attempt to free MButt around the same timeline. They'll be working the route a little ahead of time, but if anyone has advice to help me help their lives suck less, I'm all ears. Especially since they'll have a chunk of time to get it done, but traveling back to the States isn't trivial.

NegativeK
As mentioned the weather thru March can be a big factor: Snow Rain Sleet The Rock taking a a day or more to dry out due to cloudy cool temps, snowmelt.  I wouldnt depend on it especially when coming from a long distance with a big goal. It could you shut you down for days
At the route:  be mindful of othe parties who may be there or show up and are capable of blasting thru it (Free)
It sucks to be delayed or even having to scuttle a long planned climb due to someone taking a long time 'working' the route,, even more so on a nice weekend. Of course its first come- first served. but it is a super popular route on everyone's list

As for actual Free beta  that is better suited elsewehere in a  Free climbing Zion forum or group
Hard to say from your info, but if your friend is not climbing at the level of its grade or right near it, It may be prudent to climb/train more to get up to that difficulty and make better use of the time here  ready to send in a timely manner
This is good logic  to make the most of your time while here in Zion and  I understand timeframes -time off from work, family  constrictions etc etc can dictate things.
Just wanting you to keep the above in mind because doing it right will make the time and energy to get here all the more worthwhile
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T shirt going out to Steve in Yosemite soon.
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BigWalls Forum / Re: History of the FIFI
« Last post by Deuce on October 13, 2019, 11:45:48 PM »
Good find, the article in Alpinist!
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BigWalls Forum / Re: Moonlight Buttress - Looking for advice and guidance.
« Last post by NegativeK on October 10, 2019, 10:04:11 AM »
Bit of thread drift.

I've offered to support a friend's attempt to free MButt around the same timeline. They'll be working the route a little ahead of time, but if anyone has advice to help me help their lives suck less, I'm all ears. Especially since they'll have a chunk of time to get it done, but traveling back to the States isn't trivial.
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BigWalls Forum / Re: Moonlight Buttress - Looking for advice and guidance.
« Last post by MtnTradman on October 09, 2019, 12:23:11 AM »
Johnny Per rack you need doubles of everything to start out then ck the route topo for any notes per 'special' or xtra gear required.
at least a Double set of Offset nuts ,
2 to 3s of small to medium cams, Doubles of medium to large size  cams.
Xtra Large cams can be an asset in Zion  and are nice to have anyways in the arsenal, cause there are some off hands & nice offwidths to be had
But I know you said budget is not unlimited though so if you can borrow xtra gear thats a better option for you
Bring it all then rack for each route at the car.
Some topos have the rack recommendation listed
Buy a guidebook !
2 60m ropes work well i.e One Lead @ 10 or 10.5mm DYNAMIC and one haul @ 8 or 8.5mm dia STATIC
You should also have a 60m length of 6 -7mm cord as a tag line - to haul up addt'l gear to you as your on a pitch, esp. if using the big cams Who wants those things clanging around gettin tangled up with everything else while you are dialing in moves on thin placements.
This same cord will also be useful for any lowering out of the haul bag that you might get into.
Though your choice of route will determine if needed or not .
Again read up on techniques and practice the systems on the ground.

I dont want to get into too much technique and methods here  per the above or anything else.
But Again i will suggest to practice with your daughter on some 3-5 pitch routes where you can dial everything in and then you'll both gel better when on an actual long route.
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BigWalls Forum / Re: History of the FIFI
« Last post by NickB on October 07, 2019, 11:12:39 PM »
Hey David - I felt for sure I'd read something about it before in Alpinist, and turns out I was right. Back in issue 54, they featured the fifi in the on-again, off-again Tool Users section.... and it turns out the article's online!

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP54/tool-users-fifi-hooks

Seems like it's been around in one form or another for a while, but it seems Bonatti popularized it back in the 50s? The article's only one page so it doesn't go into great detail.
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BigWalls Forum / History of the FIFI
« Last post by david allfrey on October 07, 2019, 09:24:09 AM »
Anyone have any history of the Fifi hook?  When it showed up? who originated it perhaps?
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BigWalls Forum / Re: Good and durable big wall lead line
« Last post by david allfrey on October 07, 2019, 09:22:58 AM »
Maxim Platinum 9.8.

Best big wall rope I have ever used.  I have taken them on 4-6 week expeditions and brought them home because they were still in good shape. unheard of...
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BigWalls Forum / Re: Moonlight Buttress - Looking for advice and guidance.
« Last post by david allfrey on October 07, 2019, 09:21:55 AM »
Johnny - You are on a great path.  I would recommend any route other than the MB, I would pick an actual aid line.  I think the MB is going to be not so fun, plus its the same 4 cams for the whole 1500 feet.

Id recommend Space Shot over Moonlight, Touchstone wall, Cosmic somethingorother Left of Spaceshot, Lunar X.  Basically anything but moonlight.  It sees almost entirely free traffic, and lots of it.

I really think it will make for a more enjoyable time for you.
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