Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
BigWalls Forum / Re: New Members--please introduce yourself here
« Last post by Deuce on Today at 04:15:54 AM »
Welcome all!  I hope these forums can be used to share information in the longer term.  Social media is great for instant answers and opinions, but so much gets lost after a few weeks.

I appreciate your signing up, and hope that folks can help each other with info and experiences.

If ever looking for info on walls or gear design that I can provide, you can also email me deuce4@bigwalls.net , of course hope to continue to help offer ideas of tools, the portaledge bring my favorite topic.
Http://www.bigwalls.net also has some older, but still perhaps some useful info, especially about remote big walls.
I’m posting a lot these days on day-to-day climbing thoughts and design on Instagram @bigwalldeuce

Cheers
2
BigWalls Forum / Re: New Members--please introduce yourself here
« Last post by Rackham on August 07, 2020, 05:11:18 PM »
Hi everyone! I'm a spaniard climber. I found this forum through d4 web. Is amazing all the info that is in it.
So, I hope to learn, enjoy and share tips, info or whatever.
Thanks Duce for create this forum!
3
BigWalls Forum / Re: portaledge tie in system video
« Last post by Deuce on August 07, 2020, 03:29:15 PM »
I don’t recommend ever taking off your harness on a big wall. 

My best big wall harness designs had leg loops that were easily detachable in the back.  Then you *could* remove the  leg loops but still have the full strength waist part of the harness, assuming your harness is designed that way.

Removing a harness on a big wall is not a standard practice.  Ok, sometimes i did it when on a massive ledge, for a short time. But even then, with extreme caution. You never know what will happen.

Of important note, all portaledges are designed for comfort and convenience, none have ever been load rated and are NOT safety systems, like a harness.  So replacing your harness With a sling is the same as climbing with just a sling.  You never know what could happen on a wall, when you read accident reports in the AAJ journals, you will note that most accidents are the result of a sequence of assumptions, not just one thing.  Take care.
4
BigWalls Forum / Re: portaledge tie in system video
« Last post by blkbart00 on August 04, 2020, 01:50:52 PM »
What about sleeping?  I'm reading "Hooking Up" and PtPP says to just girth hitch a sling around your waist and remove your harness.   Why this doesn't scare me I do like the idea of being tied in twice, one being the dynamic rope. This will make my wife and mum happy.   

My thought to sleep without a harness:
 Start by sitting on the ledge, tied it to ledge itself with sling/PAS and tied into lead rope which is hanging under the ledge and attached to the anchor. As your video describes.
 Next tie a sling around my waist as described by Pete with just a girth hitch and overhand knot. Connect the sling to the tether going to the ledge. 
  Then Pull up slack from the rope and tie in short with a figure 8 on a bight and attach this to the sling leaving plenty of tail for the next step.
  Then untie the rope from my harness and attach it directly around my waist using the appropriate tie in, limiting knot with a slip knot. 
  Now remove the harness and get comfortable in my bag. 

This way I'd just have a sling and a rope around my waist.  I'm tied it pretty tight with the sling so if I do flip the ledge or fall off I wont go far and the rope is the ultimate backup encase the ledge anchor or something catastrophic happens, I'm still attached to the wall. 

Am I overthinking this too much?  I know I need to get out and just do it.  I'm just trying to be as prepared as possible.  The one night I spent sleeping on the ledge I stayed in my harness.  This was fine for one night but for multiple nights it'd be nice to remove harness, put on long johns, etc.   
5
BigWalls Forum / Re: New Members--please introduce yourself here
« Last post by blkbart00 on August 04, 2020, 11:10:44 AM »
Hello, Name is Darren Bart.  From Simi Valley in Southern California, 10 minutes from Stoney.  36 years of age.
I took a climbing class in college at Chico State but didn't stick with it as I was distracted by, girls, wakeboarding and dirt bikes.
A few years back I got a hangboard to help with arm pump and that has snowballed into this climbing obsession.  I haven't ridden my dirt bike in 2 years, I can't get enough climbing. 
I have 2 small kids and I love that this is something I can teach them and we can do together. 

I very interested in vertical camping.  I bought a D4 ledge over a year ago from Barry just so my kids and I could play on it in the backyard.  I hauled it and have slept on it once on a local wall but I'm dieing to get out more with it.  Covid has wrecked some plans I had for this summer.    My daughter (Avery, 5 years old)  loves sleeping on it with me in the backyard.  So for the time being that works.  I love how comfortable my kids are climbing and hanging out on the ledge.  Portaledge life will be second nature to them.    I'm very excited about the future and stoked on exploring this beautiful planet while we still have it. 
6


Quote
Thats's true, but just if the bed are horisontal; how do you achieve that with just one suspension point?

All asymmetric hangs use something to support the shorter side, that's the reason you're doing an asymmetric hang, because there's some reason why a centered hang will not work. The issue might be the image Andy has in the book  under the first "4 Bolt Anchor" showing a ledge on the left without anything supporting the right side. This image is because it's not an extreme side hang and so the tension of the straps can support the ledge being flat but it still would slide a little bit. If you look at the other photos where the hang is extreme off to the side of the ledge, both of these are using the other ledge to support the off center nature of the hang.


When doing an asymmetric hang, you have to set the straps with weight in mind so strap length when tensioning requires you to be in the ledge, figure out the adjustment, make adjustment, stand in ledge, continue adjust as needed. This also needs to be done with the object that will be supporting the shorter side by the anchors in place as no ledge will accept an asymmetric hang if there's nothing forcing the asymmetry and will instead slide in the direction that will center the anchor over the ledge. This is the reason why asymmetric hangs is only something done when you have to.

Also you don't need to bold "one point" as all portaledge hangs are from one point.


Thank you for your patience, Failfalling! Your answers explain a lot to me.
7
D4 Delta2p Testing and Feedback / July 2020 modifications
« Last post by Deuce on July 28, 2020, 04:02:46 PM »
Working on finless divider system, playing around with center bed tensioning systems.  Full strength connected to frame airside clip in for those concerned about winds turning the ledge (you can tension from below).
8
D4 Delta2p Testing and Feedback / Re: Delta2p in Yosemite : El Cap July 7 - 9
« Last post by Deuce on July 27, 2020, 06:08:41 PM »
Buckle change in process--I will put in on the end of the bed, so it tensions downward.  Probably better ergonomics as well.
9
D4 Delta2p Testing and Feedback / Delta2p in Yosemite : El Cap July 7 - 9
« Last post by Camden on July 26, 2020, 08:16:06 PM »
Had the opportunity to test the new ledge on an attempt at Tangerine Trip earlier this month. We ended up bailing ( :( :-[ :-X) but spent a night on the wall and one on the ground in the ledge.

Notes:

- The perpendicular-to-the-wall layout is awesome. It offers a nice change in perspective being able to sit up, back against the wall with the feet straight out and then just slide on down to the prone position for sleeping. Also, laying head away from the wall is a super comfy and nice way to belay.
- The narrower profile against the wall is helpful because the ledge fits more easily next to the haul bag. We had it it on the right bolt of a three bolt anchor with the pig on the left and it was great.

- Very easy to setup. The bungie cord connecting the pipes and tapered ends allows most of them to snap together effortlessly.
- Basically just had all adjustment straps fully extended so that was easy.
- Breakdown also pretty easy, folding is maybe the trickiest part but it always seems to work out.

- About as comfortable as other good ledges... a slight sag in the middle but not bad. Climbing with my girlfriend, it was nice not worrying about a divider. Great for couples but I wonder if it would feel cramped with two big dudes. Probably not a big deal though!

- I found the large buckle in the middle to be annoying because I often rolled my head onto it. John said he's looking into alternative buckles here.

- Used the fly to block a drip coming down and as a sun shade. This worked better than a normal ledge because we could cover the outer half of the ledge but still have wide open views on either side.
10
attached notes from shop
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10