BigWalls Forum

Big Walls => BigWalls Forum => Topic started by: Deuce on December 01, 2019, 06:45:58 PM

Title: pioneering North Face Big Wall
Post by: Deuce on December 01, 2019, 06:45:58 PM
This was by far the most extreme big wall done on a north face in the greater ranges at the time. Probably still is.

"The players for the first route on the north face, in 1995, were Argentine-born Willy Benegas and Americans Eric Brand, Jared Ogden and Kevin Starr. They took the great corner, which they named the Book of Shadows. With an approach gully raked by slush avalanches and aerial bombardment, and pitches characterized by A4 aid and often loose and verglassed rock, it ranks as one of the more objectively hazardous and technically difficult routes on Trango. Given the perpetual cold of the north face, it's also as masochistic an undertaking as anything done on the Tower. The team used six ropes on their capsule-style climb, camped in portaledges, and made the summit on August 4 after a final eighteen-day push."

Full article:  http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP11/profile-trango
Title: Re: pioneering North Face Big Wall
Post by: MtnTradman on December 03, 2019, 10:16:27 PM
Fantastic forward thinking epic  by some great climbers, Brand was like no other !
Title: Re: pioneering North Face Big Wall
Post by: Deuce on October 12, 2020, 08:39:21 PM
Note:  Xaver and my foray onto the North side of Great Trango for the upper half of the route was probably the biggest northern facing big wall ascent at the time (pure big wall style).  We really didn't know if it would be possible to be without sun at high altitude on a big wall, though we did get a few minutes of sun in the morning and also late in the day.  That portion of the wall was over 2200' (about half of our route).

The ascent of the North Face of Nameless a few years later was longer (>1000m), with the route entirely on the northern facing wall, so that was a pioneering effort as well.